The Gift of Experience: Remarkable Encounters and Misadventures in the Global Pursuit of Waves (Paperback) (ISBN-13: 9781968548070)

I emerged from the jungle path and skirted up the dune to discover a pristine beach with only the footprints of various birds and crabs, no signs of humanity. My heart raced as I looked to sea and observed the peeling of beautiful six-foot waves a few hundred feet offshore. I couldn't wait to get out and surf them.

The usual questions began racing through my mind: how shallow was the reef and how jagged was the coral; what creatures of concern lurked beneath the surface; where was a channel that I could navigate to get beyond the powerful waves so that I could ride one in. There was no one there to answer my questions-I simply had to use my judgement and past experience to develop my plan. Within minutes, I had found my way past the break and rode some spectacular waves. This is why I had come on this trip.

The Gift of Experience chronicles moments like this one on the island of Fiji. Between 1969 and 1983 I devoted a sizeable portion of my life to traveling around the world in search of great waves, but I experienced so much more. Encounters with people from different cultures in exotic and remote places shaped an incredible journey filled with valuable life lessons and enduring relationships. In these stories you will gain a glimpse into the unexpected challenges of my travels, the goodwill of so many people, the broadened understanding of humanity, and the joy of getting out of one's comfort zone to explore.

I hope to inspire readers to do the same, and if not, at least gain a greater appreciation of the endless possibilities that exist on this planet when you chase a dream.